Guidelines - Alpine Guides, Mt Cook, New Zealand

Ascents trip up Tasman Glacier

jamieagl — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 00:37:53 +0000

After a few days of good weather out of the hills. Managed to summit Green, Walter, Alymer and H Dome. The winds picked up today so we decide to fly out and see what we can do from the village tomorrow.

Starting up the final pitchs on Mt Green

On the Summit of Green

Jane was along on the trip and well and great having 2 guides, good for photos.

Heading up the ridge on H Dome

SW winds on the way to the summit of H Dome

The last summit day on H Dome was great with light-moderate SW winds blowing snow after 20cm of new snow overnight, making for great photos.

Hoping the weather comes good again as forecast for more climbing tomorrow from the village.

Ice cliff on Mt Tasman

artmcbride — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:52:53 +0000

Guide Jamie Robertson got back to base last night after an attempt on Mount Tasman (3497 metres), NZ’s second highest peak.

He and his guest Don decided to turn back while on the summit of Lendenfeld (3194 metres – NZ’s 5th highest) due to the combination of snow conditions, and the state of the route to the summit.

You can see from the image (click for an alpine sized view) the nasty ice cliff sitting on the shoulder. This ice cliff cut the route off for about a decade some years ago, and has recently become active again. Getting around it requires maneuvering out on to the steep east face, so conditions need to be perfect.

You can just make out some climbers in the col below it. They pulled back from a summit attempt, but managed to rap down through the ice cliff safely.

Feedback from Ama Dablam

artmcbride — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 19:57:14 +0000

Here’s a nice testimonial we just received from Chris Bailey who did a TMC with guide Bill Atkinson over the new year period of last year (2010/11).

Cheers for the feedback Chris!

Hi Bill,

Not sure if you remember me, but I did the TMC course with you over
New Years this year. I don’t think I did anything to really stand out
so can’t narrow it down more then that..

Just wanted to send a quick message thanking you for all the help and
advice you gave me, especially when I cornered you with a notepad
asking you a thousand questions after dinner!

I got to the summit of Ama Dablam on the 7th Nov after a push from
camp 2. I was by far the best technically in the group and largely due
to you. So thanks once more.

Chris Bailey

Mt Aspiring

jamieagl — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 08:23:48 +0000

Back from a trip on Aspiring. The weather did not play the perfect game and we ended up extending a day as we could not fly out when we wanted too but on the bright side we managed to summit. Great views on the way up but the weather did turn again for the descent making interesting conditions on the rocky ridge.

Other parties on the Ramp of Aspiring

We had a busy summit day with 2 other parties also climbing the same route.

Summit, Mt Aspiring

We still manage to get a view from the summit but the cloud was coming in and out.

The rocky descent of the full NW ridge

We had hope to fly out the same day as summitting but instead had a quick 9hr (25km) walk down the valley to the car the next day and thus late finishing.

The guys are already talking about another trip in the future so must have short memories about the walk in and out (no flights due to the wx).